Located 45 kilometres off the coast of Niigata prefecture, in the Chubu region of Japan, Sado Island is the sixth largest island in the country. It consists of two parallel mountain ranges – the Osado range in the northwest, and the Kosado range in the southeast. Kuninaka Plain, the flat land nestled between the two, is the most populated area of Sado Island and is home to seemingly endless acres of rice fields.
Coupled with the surrounding Sea of Japan, Sado Island’s incredibly rich natural environment offers a diversity of landscapes with spectacular views like no other. In fact, thanks a deep-rooted sense of community fostered among the locals to preserve and protect the island’s verdant forests and mountainous terrain, a bulk of Sado Island is designated as a quasi-national park by the national government. From trekking and cycling to simply sightseeing, nature-loving visitors will be hardpressed to leave the unspoiled natural beauty that makes up Sado Island!
Like a tale as old as time, it is said that life flourished on this island around the 8th century when the whole of Japan was still being formed as a country. Also around the time, Sado Island served as a penal colony for political exiles due to the island’s remote location, but it was also thanks to some of these highly cultured imprisoned residents – including ex-Emperor Juntoku and Buddhist monk Nichiren – that a unique Sado culture was born. Adding another layer of cultural distinction to Sado Island is the gold and silver mining operation by samurai officials during the Edo period in the 17th and 18th centuries, during which traditional arts and entertainment like Noh were introduced to the locals. Today, you can experience the intriguing history and cultural diversity of Sado Island through the myriad activities and tours available.
Sado Island would be sorely misrepresented if we didn’t mention their food, glorious food. The four discernible seasons can be characterised by Sado Island’s wonderfully fresh seasonal produce, whose rich and enhanced flavours are the result of the island’s lush mountains, fertile plains and abundantly stocked seas.
Over the next few pages, you’ll find out exactly why Sado Island is considered one of Japan’s best-kept travel secrets. Disclaimer: We shall not be held responsible for any sudden surge of wanderlust!
(text tan lili photography masanori kawaguchi / syunsuke shii/ katsuyoshi sekine)
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Homecooked Delicacies
A typical Sado feast consists of three ingredients: a generous helping of high-quality local produce, layers of traditions, and a whole lot of heart.
If there’s one thing to be said about the people of Sado, it’s that they are nothing if not unyieldingly dedicated. With time-honoured culinary traditions and easy access to quality produce (as you’re about to find out on the next page), you can expect no less than a gastronomical affair for a typical homecooked meal in Sado.
It’s no wonder, then, that a Sado feast prepared for special occasions such as weddings would be deemed fit for royalty. Served on traditional Japanese-style lacquered tray-tables, a banquet meal comprises various small and artistically arranged dishes, each an evidence of the time and labour poured into creating it. Because of the self-sustaining farming system in Sado, many local families are able to easily get – if not grow their own garden of – fresh herbs and vegetables throughout the year. Some popular local dishes include: Sado nishime, a simmering pot of vegetable stew made up of radishes, carrots and bamboo shoots; grilled eggplants and peppers with bonito flakes; homemade fishcakes with shiso (basil) paste; freshly picked mountain vegetables served raw or lightly marinated; and grilled squid topped with goro (the intestines of the squid) and miso paste.
Of course, when you are in Sado, no banquet is complete without a bowl or two of koshihikari, a much-revered variety of Japanese short-grain rice. Koshihikari is also often used as sushi rice for futomaki (a large cylindrical sushi roll with three or more fillings) as well as inarizushi (a pocket of fried tofu-wrapped sushi rice) – these sushi dishes are usually served on a large communal tray for sharing.
(TEXT TAN LILI PHOTOGRAPHY MASANORI KAWAGUCHI / SYUNSUKE SHII/ KATSUYOSHI SEKINE)
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Meet The People of Sado
Tadaaki Aida, Aida Farm Sado Super Koshihikari
A firm promoter of the development of Sado, Aida has no qualms about sharing his rice farming method with other local producers – he believes it would improve the overall quality of rice in Sado and, in the long run, help in the development of the city. Well, seems to us that’s a philosophy worth learning!
Tell us more about your rice farm.
My family and I have a very meticulous method of harvesting the rice – we would walk around our 13-hectare rice field (that’s the size of almost 30 football fields!) once a week to manually adjust the fertilisers. The weather is unpredictable, but at least we can control the quality of our rice crop. Another unique feature of Aida Rice Farm is our oyster shell system. Together with the use of organic fertilisers, the oyster shell powder works to enhance the flavour of our rice, giving it its characteristic sweetness and slight stickiness.
So, we hear the endangered Japanese crested ibis, or toki, like to visit your farm?
Yes, it’s become a rather common sight. The toki was made endangered due to human activity; it’s wholly our responsibility to revive the species. After years of conservation, it seems they are coming back to share this living environment with humans, and it’s our mission to find the perfect balance between humans and the toki to ensure harmony.
Why do you think Sado is ideal for rice farming?
Sado Island is surrounded by the Sea of Japan, which brings with it a salty sea breeze that enhances the flavour of our rice. At the same time, we are on a flat-land area (ideal for rice farming), and the air is generally clean. We are very fortunate to be so strategically located.
Rice farming aside, what do you personally like about Sado?
Oh, I love matsuri (festivals). Everyone comes together to celebrate the good harvest with plenty of sake and laughter – which, to me, is the spirit of matsuri. Another great thing about Sado is the Sado breeze. I’m not talking about the sea breeze; the tradition, culture and smile of the Sado people is palpable through the Sado breeze, and I genuinely hope visitors can experience this breeze when they are here, too.
Akiko Watanabe, Hana no Ki
Her graceful and gentle demeanour would instantly put one at ease. We speak to the director of Hana no Ki, a 150-year-old Japanese farm house she and her husband (pottery artist Tosei Watanabe) opened in 1995, as she shares with us her Sado story.
What prompted your move to Sado?
My cancer-stricken father was told he had two years left to live, so we decided to uproot our lives in Nagoya and move to Sado 39 years ago in the hope of a peaceful few years for my father. The amazing thing is, after moving to Sado, he survived for another 33 happy years.
You also produce your own brand of camellia oil. What inspired it?
Camellia trees typically attract a lot of bugs, but not the trees in Sado. The trees here are also strong enough to withstand harsh winter conditions. I thought it would be a waste of nature’s gift not to revive it. But the real motivation was my father – camellia oil is known to reduce blood cholesterol levels, which would do my sickly father good at the time.
What are the other benefits of camellia oil?
It is very moisturising for the skin, and can be used to soothe skin problems such as eczema.
What do you like most about Sado?
The nature here is breathtaking. I can truly feel it whenever seasons change. Also, the people of Sado are very down-to-earth; I could wear clothes with holes and not worry about getting judged!
(TEXT TAN LILI PHOTOGRAPHY MASANORI KAWAGUCHI / SYUNSUKE SHII/ KATSUYOSHI SEKINE)
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