For those looking to escape the hectic hustle and bustle of city life, it doesn’t get much better than Joetsu region in Niigata prefecture. Joetsu region was united by the lord Kenshin Uesugi in the mid-16th century, and comprises the cities of Joetsu, Myoko, and Itoigawa in our time.
Regardless of the season you plan to travel, you’ll be filled with wonder at the scenic views that greet you at every turn. During autumn, the sight of mountains exhibiting the bright yellows and reds of fall foliage will provide plenty of fodder for Instagram, while in winter, a blanket of snow covers everything, making it a spectacular sight to behold. So abundant is the snowfall in this area that snow is saved for summer for a fun festival during the summer months!
Brilliant scenery isn’t the only thing that will stay with you long after you leave Joetsu region. The warm smiles and kind hospitality of its people will also be something you’ll remember. Its harsh winters have fostered a spirit of cooperation and harmony among inhabitants of Joetsu who rely on each other to get through the colder months. The area is constantly developing, and its continual striving for innovation in order to better the lives of its residents has also seen a recent installation of solar power generators in the city, which has so far provided electricity to some 700 households.
Fans of winter sports will find themselves in their elements as they’ll get to ski and snowboard to their hearts’ content at the numerous resorts in Akakura and Myoko. Those who are less inclined towards such vigorous physical activities won’t feel neglected as well, as there’s so much to try by way of local delicacies.
Niigata or Joetsu region might be most well-known for its fragrant Koshihikari rice and top-notch sakes, but foodies will surely also delight in the variety of fresh fish (thanks to its location close to the Sea of Japan), tasty vegetables and sweet confectionary available in the region.
Travellers will also be glad to know that Joetsu is easily accessible from Tokyo, thanks to the Hokuriku Shinkansen station that opened in March 2015. Despite the fact that its climate and landscape differs greatly from Japan’s capital.
Going up to northeast from Joetsu, the industrial cities of Tsubame and Sanjo are also worth visiting as they were developed by craftsmen, traders, and businessmen. Head to these two places to stock on a variety of kitchenware!
Check out everything Joetsu region, Tsubame and Sanjo cities has to offer by poring over the next few pages – you just might be convinced to extend your next trip to Japan in order to explore this amazing prefecture.
(Text Denise Li • Photography Osamu Nakamura)
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Grain of Truth
Rice lies at the heart of almost every meal you’ll enjoy during your stay in Niigata prefecture.
If you’re planning to visit Niigata prefecture, our advice to you is to travel light. One bite of its fragrant, pillowy rice, and you’ll see why it’s famous the world over – and it’s so good that you’ll surely want to buy a few packets of it to enjoy at home.
Many believe that Niigata’s Koshihikari rice is among the best money can buy, and that’s no small praise for a country that takes its rice very seriously. A region that experiences harsh winters and heavy snowfall, the pristine melting snow is responsible for nourishing the numerous rice paddies that dot the prefecture. Koshihikari rice has a delicate sweetness that makes it tasty enough to be eaten on its own.
One of the must-try delicacies when you’re there has to be the sasazushi (bamboo leaf sushi), shown in the picture here. A regional specialty in the Niigata and Nagano prefectures, it is rice that’s been seasoned with vinegar, moulded into oval shapes, then placed on bamboo leaves. To try it for yourself, head to the inn and restaurant Harumi-so in Myoko city. Sushi toppings range from salmon, to bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, zenmai (Japanese flowering fern), and kinshi tamago (strips of thin omelet), or whatever else is locally and seasonally available. Bamboo leaves are used because of their anti-bacterial properties, which allow food to be kept for longer. Sasazushi is the highlight in a generous set meal that includes noppei (vegetables stewed in potato starch), butajiru (a rich pork based soup), as well as agebitashi (deep-fried eggplant soaked in dashi).
Of course, in Niigata, where there’s an abundance of clean, soft water and quality rice, there is no shortage of excellent sake as well. Connoisseurs around the world continue to rave about sake from Niigata, which is known for being crisp and dry, with a more delicate aroma compared to sake from other parts of Japan. It is really the perfect accompaniment to the exciting and novel flavours you’ll be experiencing on your gastronomic journey in Niigata.
(TEXT DENISE LI • PHOTOGRAPHY OSAMU NAKAMURA)
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Meet The People of Joetsu
Tomio Miyazaki
Born and bred in Joetsu, the vice president of the Tomi Sushi restaurants has big dreams of showcasing Niigata’s fine produce to the world.
How did the idea of Tomi Sushi come about?
My family has always been in the business of seafood, first as wholesalers, before becoming supermarket and restaurant owners. In 2007, we realised that a majority of the revenue came from our restaurants, so we decided to close down the supermarket to focus our efforts on building the restaurant business. I’ve always dreamed about expanding into overseas markets and that dream came true with the opening of the first Tomi Sushi outlet outside of Japan in 2010, located in Singapore’s Millenia Walk. We have opened two more Tomi Sushi outlets in Singapore, as well as another restaurant, Echigotei. We are happy to see more customers from Singapore visiting our outlets in recent years.
What are some business principles you live by?
Many people feel that eating sushi is a “snobbish” experience – even here in Joetsu – and that’s a perception I would like to change with Tomi Sushi. That’s the reason we insist on charging reasonable prices for our high quality food. I also see it as my duty to educate customers about the produce that comes out of Niigata – hopefully this will encourage them to visit the region for themselves!
What’s one thing you want people to know about Niigata prefecture?
That anytime is a good time to visit the region because every season is beautiful in its own right. I’m also very proud of the variety and quality of our seafood!
Masao Tominaga
The 7th generation descendent of a noble family, Masao Tominaga has worked tirelessly for 11 years to preserve his family’s estate, a culturally important monument in Joetsu.
Tell us about the history of the Hayashi Tominaga estate.
It was built 130 years ago, and much of its original architecture still stands today. The large support pillars are fashioned from Japanese Zelkova and cedar wood, which are strong enough to withstand the weight of heavy snowfall. My family was the main line of a noble family that established itself in the area during the Edo period, and held a prominent role as the family of the local ruling headman until the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate.
What made you decide to move to and restore the estate over a decade ago?
The estate is an important part of the region’s history, and I saw it as my duty to help preserve this historical and cultural monument for generations to come. I had just retired and had all the time in the world to restore it to its former glory. The views from the house are simply amazing all year around. When an electric company wanted to build electric cables surrounding the house some years ago, we immediately put our foot down because this would ruin the view! Lucky for us, they acquiesced and built underground cables instead.
When’s the best time to visit the estate?
Currently, we’re only open to visitors for three days during spring, and another three days in autumn, but due to numerous requests, we are seriously considering opening up the estate more often.
(TEXT DENISE LI • PHOTOGRAPHY OSAMU NAKAMURA)
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