Just what is it about Fukui prefecture that makes it the happiest in Japan, according to a study released by Hosei University in 2011. In short, a relatively low unemployment rate, support systems to help shoulder the burden of child-rearing, low mortality rate, and quality hospitals.
Of course, these are not things you can easily observe if you’re only on a week long jaunt to the prefecture. What you will encounter, however, are friendly locals, an abundance of amazing produce, beautiful scenery, and fascinating historical sights.
While on the topic of historical sights, not many areas in Japan can boast of having one of the best dinosaur museums in the world, Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum. Katsuyama city, where the museum is located, is home to the country’s largest excavation site. It’s easy to spend a full day wandering about the exhibits, finding more about the creatures that continue to fascinate us even to this day.
Zen Buddhism is an integral part of Fukui’s history and culture, and continues to be important today, thanks to the influential Eiheiji Temple, which you will read more about in the next few pages.
Today the spirit of Zen Buddhism continues to inform the way residents of Fukui live their lives, as can be seen through how they relate to nature and their surroundings. While they use the abundant natural resources available to them in the prefecture, preservation is also an important aspect of their ethos.
For instance, while Fukui is famous for its Echizen crab, the fishermen do their best to ensure that the species does not become overfished by limiting the harvesting period for female crabs.
Speaking of preservation, another fine example of it is how fiercely the residents of Fukui have protected aspects of their long, rich history. For instance, the Ichijodani Asakura Clan Ruins, and Heisenji Shrine which were destroyed centuries ago have since been excavated and rebuilt with great efforts, all so that Fukui residents and visitors alike can continue to appreciate these sites’ cultural importance to the region.
For those who have so far only been Japan’s more populated regions such as Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, or Fukuoka, a visit to the more rural Fukui will prove to be an eye-opening experience. Sample some of the prefecture’s simple yet delicious produce, take in the numerous beautiful sights, meditate at its temples, and learn more about the area’s fascinating history. You might not gain enlightenment after that short visit, but you’ll feel a sense of peace and contentment that you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere else.
Take in the breathtaking view of Mikatagoko (Five Lakes)
Make your way to up to Summit Park, situated along the Rainbow Line, a 11.2km scenic road and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of Mikatagoko (Five Lakes). The view of the lakes changes from season to season, and the waters each have their own characteristics: fresh water, salt water or a mix of both. The park is also home to a beautiful rose garden, and while you’re there, write a wish on a clay tile and toss it into the distance. Legend has it that if a tengu (mountain goblin) picks up the tile, he just might make your wish come true!
Enter Jurassic World
A visit to Fukui isn’t complete without a trip to the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum in Katsuyama city. From the moment you walk in, you’ll immediately understand why the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum is ranked among the top three dinosaur museums in the world.
The most impressive exhibition hall of all has to be Dinosaur World, located in the basement. With 42 mounted reconstructed life-
With detailed signs in English explaining more about the origins of the dinosaurs, don’t be surprised if you find yourself spending a full day at the museum learning more about these fascinating creatures.
Reset Your Balance at Eiheiji Temple
Get a crash course on Zen Buddhism, right here.An impressive temple by any measure, Eihei-ji is made up of seven structures, including the main gate, the Buddha hall, the Dharma hall, the Priests’ hall, kitchen, bath, and toilets. Some of the cedar trees on the temple grounds are over 500 years old!
One thing you’ll notice, despite the number of tourists that visit the temple every day, is just how peaceful it is, as monks and tourists alike are expected to go about their daily business as silently and purposefully as possible.
While you’re visiting the temple, do take the opportunity to experience zazen. Zazen means “seated Zen”: The practice of simply sitting in the correct posture, being still, and letting body and mind return to their original condition.
Stay Soba For This
If there’s one thing that the residents of Fukui take seriously, it’s soba. The prefecture is a major producer of buckwheat, and here, soba is most commonly eaten chilled with oroshi (grated Japanese white radish), soy sauce, and dashi (a stock made of sea kelp and bonito flakes). For Kenzo Takayanagi, soba is more than just a meal — it’s a way of life. One of Fukui’s most highly regarded soba masters, Takayanagi has been making soba for as long as he can remember. “I love eating soba and used to make soba as a hobby, even while I had an office job,” he reveals. About 25 years ago, he came out tops at an amateur soba-making competition and the rest, as they say, is history.
Two types of soba noodle dishes are served up here. There is the traditional oroshi soba, and there’s also soba served up with a dipping sauce made of crushed daikon juice and a special soy sauce. The latter — which has a unique bitter, spicy flavour — is Takayanagi’s personal favourite way of enjoying soba.
The Rice is right
The much-loved and now world famous koshihikari rice was actually developed right here in Fukui. It always feels like a privilege to meet farmers whenever we go on these trips to Japan. As city dwellers in a country that imports the bulk of its food, we are so far removed from our food sources that it’s easy take to not give a second thought to how it’s grown or harvested.
To find out more about rice production in Fukui, we meet up with farmer Daisuke Hasegawa at one of his rice fields. Hasegawa — who owns 70 hectares of rice fields — grows nine different varieties of rice. Some of these are for eating, while some are used purely for making sake.
The most famous rice variant of all, of course, is koshihikari. Sweet, nutty, and with a plump, fluffy texture, this is Japan’s most well-loved rice variety. Fukui is responsible for producing only about 1 percent of all the koshihikari rice in Japan. In recent years, Niigata and Hokkaido have stolen some of Fukui’s thunder by becoming the two largest producers of koshihikari rice in Japan.
The fact remains, however, that the koshihikari grain was created right here in Fukui about 60 years ago at the Fukui Agricultural Experiment Station. The selective breeding of rice is an extremely laborious and time-consuming process, taking about 14 or 15 years just to create one variant!
“Fukui has great conditions for rice growing,” shares Hasegawa. “Lots of sunny days, coupled with just the right amount of rain and wind.” The prefecture is also blessed with ample sources of pure water, including run-off from the sacred Mount Hakusan. The sudden dip in temperatures from day to night during autumn is also said to result in a more intense flavour.
Hasegawa is proud of the fact that minimal chemical fertilisers and pesticides are used in his farming process. Not only does this result in a healthier grain, it also translates to cost savings, which Hasegawa is happy to pass onto the rest of the supply chain.
(TEXT DENISE LI • PHOTOGRAPHY TOMONOBU KITAGAWA)
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