With rich and diverse cultural, historical and culinary delights, the Setouchi region within the Seto Inland Sea is set to be your new favourite destination.
The Setouchi region of Japan encompasses the islands and coastal areas within the Seto Inland Sea, the 400-kilometre stretch of water that lies between three major Japanese islands: Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. With a moderate climate, the region is comfortable to visit year-round, and with a relatively lower profile outside of Japan, it offers a laid-back experience without the hordes of tourists. But that might change as it was recently named No. 7 of 52 Places You Should Visit in 2019 by The New York Times.
The region encompasses several prefectures, including Hiroshima, Ehime and Okayama, as well as thousands of smaller islands. For this issue, we take a closer look at Onomichi and Tomonoura in Hiroshima Prefecture, and Ehime Prefecture.
The two prefectures are connected by the Shimanami Kaido, a nine-bridge 60-kilometre expressway linking Honshu with Shikoku. What’s special about the expressway is it also has a slightly longer dedicated bicycle lane—at 70 kilometres—that has been drawing avid cyclists to the region. The Shimanami Kaido starts at Onomichi and ends at Imabari in Ehime Prefecture.
You can also get around on trains easily on West Japan Railway Company (JR West)’s services. With a direct flight from Singapore to Hiroshima, you can begin exploring the Setouchi region as soon as you touch down. There’s a shinkansen high-speed train and a local train from Hiroshima to Onomichi and from there you can connect to Fukuyama, the nearest town to Tomonoura.
From Hiroshima, you can choose to take a train or ferry to Matsuyama, Ehime’s capital city.
They may be different cities with different histories and cultures but the Seto Inland Sea, also known as Setonaikai, binds them together with shared characteristics. One is their love for tai, or sea bream, though each area has its own unique way of showcasing this versatile fish. In Ehime, it comes in the form of tai meshi, steamed rice cooked with the bream, after which the fish is deboned and mixed in along with fish broth.
In Tomonoura, tai is particularly abundant due to the converging tides. There, the tai dishes come in many forms, including sashimi and tempura. Citrus fruits are also an important produce in the area. Ehime is synonymous with the mikan orange while Hiroshima is known for lemons.
Let’s get to know these different places.
>>The old-world charm of Onomichi
>>Step back in time in Tomonoura
>>Experience Ehime’s diversity
>>Take these Setouchi souvenirs home
(TEXT Siti Rohani Photography chisato nyunoya)
Meet the people of Setouchi
Ruka Fujii, CEO of Setouchi Cruising
This second-generation CEO hit upon the idea for a one-of-a-kind boat catering to cycling enthusiasts.
How did you come up with the idea of a boat for cyclists?
With the Shimanami Kaido, more people started arriving with their bikes. While they can use the regular ferry, it isn’t specifically catered to that demographic and there were issues like bikes crashing into each other. So I had the idea to start Cycleship LazuLi, which was launched in October 2018.
How has the vessel been retrofitted for bicycles?
We have a dedicated space so they can be placed neatly and safely. And instead of the usual 45-degree incline staircase, we designed it at 33 degrees so it’s easier to carry the bicycles to the top deck.
What happens to the boat during the cycling off-season?
The cycling high season is during spring and autumn, so I wanted to make sure the boat could be used for other activities the rest of the time. For example, it can be chartered to set off fireworks. So the boat needed to be specially made. It’s the only one in the world and it cost US$1.5 million (S$2 million).
Shizuhiro Nishikawa, bamboo weaver
As the last of his generation of master weavers specialising in the yachara ami style, 78-year-old Nishikawa-san is keen to find a successor.
How did you learn weaving?
My father taught me when I was 18, so I’ve been doing this for 60 years. I’ve even made something for Emperor Akihito. It was presented to him as a gift during the national sports competition held in Ehime last year.
How long did it take to master the craft?
I started by learning how to cut the bamboo, which took me two to three years of just cutting. I had cuts all over my hands because the bamboo is sharp.
What’s special about the form of weaving you do?
The style is called yachara ami and is unique to Ehime Prefecture. I’m the only person specialising in this form. It’s when the bottom of the weave looks uniform and the rest looks like a random pattern. You have to maintain the shape while making a freeform pattern. It takes skill to bring it all together again.
Are there enough people to carry on the tradition?
My son, who is 50, is the youngest successor in the prefecture. It would be useful if the government could come up with opportunities to promote the craft so we can attract the younger generation. We now run a weaving class for tourists in Dogo Onsen.
Exploring Setouchi by Train
Avid train travellers will love being in Japan because it has one of the most-developed railway networks in the world. Japanese trains are renowned for being fast, efficient and clean. They also famously run on time so it’s a good idea to be waiting on the platform at least 10 minutes before you’re set to depart.
One of the advantages of travelling on a JR train is that you’re allowed to eat and drink onboard. With convenience stores located at every station— and even on some platforms—you can quickly grab some refreshments before settling in for a comfortable ride.
You can also enjoy an ekiben if you’re looking for something more satisfying. The word is a combination of eki (station) and bento (lunchbox), but an ekiben is no ordinary lunchbox. It’s region-specific, which means the food and even the packaging are created specially to promote the different flavours and culture of each area. Grab a tako meshi (octopus rice) at Fukuyama Station, indulge in some anago meshi (sea eel rice) when you’re in Onomichi Station and pick up a shoyu meshi (soy sauce rice) at Matsuyama Station!
If you’re travelling between Shin-Osaka and Hakata stations, you may even have a lucky encounter with a pink and white Hello Kitty shinkansen. Car 1 of the eight-car train has been transformed into a cute display area showcasing areas of interest around western Japan, and even has a small shop selling special souvenirs featuring the popular character.
